Surfing is a great sport that can improve your physical and mental health. The activity stimulates the brain and releases endorphins, which can lower stress levels and produce euphoric feelings. However, like any other sport, it does take time and dedication to learn the skills needed to become a good surfer. This is why it’s important to understand what the hardest part of surfing is so you know when you’re getting close.
Getting out of the water is one of the most challenging parts of surfing. Even seasoned surfers struggle with this part of the sport. In addition, paddling out is a killer workout for the arms. Especially on days where there are strong waves coming in between wave sets.
You need to be able to paddle out as quickly as possible before the next wave comes in. This can be challenging for new surfers and it can take a lot of practice to get good at it. Practicing out of the water is also a great way to build up stamina and avoid becoming overtired from all the exercise. It can also help you to develop a more observant eye when you are in the water.
This is where you can decide which wave will give you a great ride and which one will close out (break completely at once, not surfable). A good rule of thumb for assessing whether a wave will peel is to check whether the shoulder line drops gradually or abruptly.
No matter how good a surfer you are, finding a wave can be the hardest part of surfing. It takes time, practice and courage to learn to read waves and assess what they will break like before you paddle out in the water. The first step is to look out at the horizon for approaching waves. This gives you a chance to rest, reposition yourself and assess the wave that's approaching.
The hardest thing about surfing is staying on your board, which can be especially difficult when a wave comes in fast. This is because the water can get quite slippery and the force of a wave crashing behind you can make it hard to stay on your board.
To keep yourself on your board, it is important to pay attention to the position of your feet and knees. Your front foot should be slightly wider than your shoulder, and your back foot should be positioned near the tail of your board 10 to 20 inches ahead of it.
Surfers spend roughly 25% of their time in the water sitting on their boards, waiting for waves to arrive. Waiting for a wave is the hardest part of surfing, but it is also one of the most rewarding parts. It is a time to connect with nature and become aware of our surroundings.
When you wait for a wave, it is important to be patient and be calm. It can take time to understand the dynamics of a lineup and how to position yourself to catch a wave properly. Professional surfers know how to catch waves through a combination of knowledge, focus and ability.
They know the ideal spot on a wave to start paddling and where to lie in the lineup to get priority. They also know how to read the ocean and how to get out of the way of other surfer’s lines to make their own priority. This can be a little challenging for beginner-intermediate surfers, but it is a skill that should be learned and developed.